MAKING A CHEF'S KNIFE!!! PART 6



ladies and gentlemen welcome back to the workshop it is fantastic to have you here as ever we're working on trying to make a fine chef's knife which is an incredible educational experience and if you guys want to learn it is just the perfect opportunity for me to thank today's sponsor which is Skillshare which is the online learning community where you can learn everything from marketing videography photography business over way down to watercolor you learn all sorts of skills with skills share and they are offering the first 700 people who hit the link in the description two months of skill share for free so make sure you hit that link Thank You Skillshare for sponsoring the video let's get right in to our own education in that of making an exquisite chef's knife oh yes that's right those are some lofty goals I like a good lofty goal you can't go wrong setting the bar higher than you think you're capable of meeting and lay down this here so we don't scratch it up further while it is that we remove the scratches that we noticed right at the end of the last episode here here here here here and here you'll notice that when we sanded in the last episode I had this piece of flat stock with some leather super glued to it and we used this as a primary sanding stick and I have to say it worked rather fantastically it helped me get into the that nice deep radius of our s grind nicely and it actually allowed me to polish a good deal of all the other surfaces perfectly fine as the leather has some gears I'm going to start off with jumping back down to 400 grit hopefully that'll be suitable for getting through these scratches little drop of wd-40 and here we go that wasn't so bad didn't take a long at all how about some 600 grit so now what I want to do is I want to do full continuous strokes as it is that we have done the bulk of our stock removal this way we don't get any Jay hooks now what is a j-hook other than a practical place to hang a coat now a j-hook when you are sanding back and forth at the end of a sanding stroke as you change sides there is often this little curve and it'll leave these little hooks in your workpiece which don't look good so what you got to do is you got to come in here and you've got to tilt your sanding stick forwards ever so slightly especially as you come into the bolster so that you can just gently glide through lift up and get it done and take the sand paper off to describe this but if you don't lean this forwards as you can't to that bolster here what happens is is that the back edge of your sanding stick will dig in and it'll make this weird little weird little spot there as soon as it slows down and you'll get a kind of a j-hook on the back edge of the sanding stick as it transitions into it so what I like to do is I like to tilt this up onto the front side onto the leading edge as we get close to it and make sure that the transition of the bolster is touched only with one edge of the sanding stick actually check out Nick wheelers tutorial in case you want to learn a lot more about hand sanding and making sure that you get the nicest finish with it because that's where I picked up a huge amount of helpful information on this subject okay on to the other side undo this flip that over and give that a tighten give that a squirt and we're back in business this is the exciting thing it doesn't take long to fix mistakes and fix these tiny little details and so it's so easy the temptation of allowing these details to stay in there is so huge yep fixing them takes just a matter of seconds oh I wish I remembered that all the time that I'm tempted to skip steps on to 600 grit now here is our next step the bolster so we have flattened out this bolster area here and I took a small little diamondbuff type thing and I ran in to that very transition between the flat of the bolster and the Tang and I just put a groove in there so it has a nice radius transition to hopefully mean that we don't get as much of a stress concentration so now I'm gonna pull the knife out of the file guide there we go so with our bolster flattened the next step is that of a strengthening step it is taking this short tang where we wouldn't have any like hard mechanical connection to our wood and it's helping create that so a design for of this night has been what I have done to the tank so when I made this Tang I put a slight downwards curve in it and I should not have done that this Tang should come straight out of the knife so that could be an issue but it's fine we can we can grind it into straight okay so here is the handle that we're gonna go for of course it's based off of Morocco's handles because like I've said before I am absolutely trying to unabashedly copy him when you're a beginner there is no point reinventing the wheel just something I need to learn so obviously that is the handle beautiful shape to it you know lots of curves it's gonna encourage you to get up here up closer and a pinch grip in the knife with this bulge there it's just gonna be a fabulous handle now what we are going to do is we are going to find a way to be able to fix that handle in so we're going to cut a slot in the tang and in there we are going to weld in a threaded stud and then we are going to make ourselves accountable in the butt of the handle material so that we can make a little nut that inserts in and tightens down pulling this handle tight to the bolster making sure that we have a strong mechanical fastening in addition to our epoxy glue up now of course you'll remember on say this bowie knife here we do not have the tang going the whole way through it's only going down to about here but we do have a pin in there for extra security I'm sure this isn't something that's absolutely needed in a chef's knife this is not obviously you know you're not hacking away through the jungle with something like this but if mareko does it I'm gonna do it but regardless I'm gonna hazard a guess and say that the stronger the better and so that is what we've got to do now I really don't like how that Tang is bent so I think the first thing that we do is we fix that tank that's hard to the animal that will work with that out of the way I'm now gonna take some four millimeter steel and we're gonna put it here in the lathe I'm gonna give it a little file and now we'll take a little four millimeter dye and we're going to thread probably about an inch or sir I'm going to pull the tail stock up to it so I apply square pressure okay now it's on squarely get this out of the way and we can start really running this up there every so often I'm going to back it off to break the chip there we go that'll do so now what we got to do is see how much of a mess of it we can make thick welding it pain will be fine so with a little threaded end piece welded on it is now time for some handle material how about that this is just a phenomenally beautiful piece of stabilized spalted maple beau I think that'll do just fabulously [Applause] [Applause] no positive filming [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] been a long time so since you have seen me last I don't know what I've done but let me run you through it all we drilled a hole we scraped out a mortise for the rectangular portion of the Tang then we drilled all the way through from the backside with a formula me to drill it and then a six millimeter drill bit we then made up one bronze nut to tighten this all together what you didn't see is I actually made it a mistake total ah here we go I've made a total mistake so here is the first piece what happened you ask well I made it too large so then I ended up making it too small so there was too much a gap so we made another piece and it's in there we made ourselves up a piece of g10 for a spacer material it is all tightened together in its dry fit up and so now it's glue up time so we're gonna take it all apart degrease it and I am gonna be using a 24 hour two-part epoxy you know it's one of those things the longer something takes the better usually ends up this is one of those cases in gluing together a knife like this we want this to be a knife that can last and be used for generations we've put all this effort into this point you know why would we skimp and use 15 minute epoxy well I can tell you why because I've skimped in the past and use 15 minute epoxy you know how this knife here the one that we're trying to improve upon had 15 minute epoxy the reason why well it's laziness it's not having a great enough commitment to the final end result deciding that actually I'm happy to make a lackluster product and save 24 hours is that a smart choice you know for some and in some occasions it is a smart choice but you'll have to forever live with the fact that you made a piece below par for the time that you save on this I am NOT happy to accept that cost so the 24 hour epoxy it is the patience it is that we will need and I think we'll be very glad for it when all is said and done [Applause] wipe it off and see if we can find our scribe line I'm sure that is about as tight as visibly possible we're now gonna clean off the acetone up here after the epoxy okey dokey that feels about as solid as possible that'll do nicely so that is gonna be going up over the next 24 hours and I want to thank our sponsor again which is Skillshare it's the online learning community where you can go to get courses and learn about everything from videography photography business marketing to painting yourself a nice watercolor you can learn Lots and the course that I want to recommend today is a course about iPhone photography because everybody's got a phone in their back pocket and these things are so incredibly powerful so much more powerful than we ever think provided you use them right it's just like one of those things it's the same in craft a master can make the most phenomenal knife possible with no power tools and blow anything I've ever made out of the water because he has the knowledge it's about the knowledge first the equipment second and being able to know how to take the best photos possible on your iPhone is going to be essential to growing your business as social media is such an important tool you want to maximize it to the greatest degree this course is by Dale McManus and I highly recommend that you sign up to Skillshare because the first 700 of you who sign up are going to get two months of Skillshare for free at the link below which is just brilliant cuz you can be able to enjoy this course learn how to take some great photos on your phone then learn how to edit videos and then learn whatever else you want to they've got over 19,000 courses Thank You Skillshare for sponsoring the video thank you guys for coming along and enjoying this and since that's blowing up tomorrow this video might be different but we'll see hit subscribe if you're new and I'll see you then

48 thoughts on “MAKING A CHEF'S KNIFE!!! PART 6

  1. Far far far far far to much talking for me, I can’t watch this guy, thank god there are other people that can do this on YouTube that do not love the sound of there own voice that just get on with it.

  2. You have done great job with the knife, however, I would like to make just 2 suggestions:

    1. Do not underestimate the work a good pro-kitchen knife will have to suffer. The forces through the knife are about 50-50 knife weight to hand pressure when cutting raw or cooked meats and vegetables. Virtually all of the rotational force is through the base of the tang where it meets the block, the area you used the burr to help prevent cracking during heavy and repeated use, bravo for that, but making the round sit flush with the tang and block would be stronger, as would keeping the tang height level with the spine of the blade, and should help it last longer too.

    2. Most of the hand pressure will be through the block and the first inch or so of the spine. For strength and comfort a flat spine is preferred (with minor rounding or a double/treble chamfer to the very edge to prevent any sharpness on the spine edges. Also, the spine will take any and all extra forces applied, whether by hand, old rolling pins or even hammers. This is why most general purpose kitchen and butchery knives keep their central spine flat. On the other hand, if the knife is intended only to be used on fish or carvery, for example, it can have an ovalled spine, as it will normally only be hit or pushed by the palm of the hand when cutting bone, rather than by a tin/aluminium/steel can, or other hard heavy object, like a mallet or a mixer stand.

    While working in London I saw a chef remove a lamb knuckle by hitting his trusty knife with a 2 foot steel bar, which he unscrewed off our large commercial dish washers rotory handle, he then promptly started swearing at it because it dented his nice £500/$1100 (very expensive as it was in the 70's) knife and also managed to brake the leg off the kitchen work table he was using. Like it was ever the knife, bar or tables fault!

    We never saw where the knuckle off the lamb joint went, but we did find it the following summer in the roof space above the asbestos tiled false ceiling, through which it had made a nice, clean hole, some 50-60 feet away. The knife is still in use at that kitchen today, some 44 years later!

    Therefore, while a kitchen knife may not be cutting a way through the jungle, it will experience some significant impact forces and alot of serious abuse, yet it still has to be as much a precision cutting tool as a scalpel, hence a flat across as much of the spine as possible is always preferred. You'll also see why it has to be as strong and durable as any machete has to be and should be able to be used as a machete,, sjould the need ever arise. 😉

    Thanks and keep the great video's coming!

  3. It's a shame he's such a sketchy hyperactive rich boy, cos he seems pretty good at what he does, just quite hard to watch sometimes. Would still be nice to see the finished product.

  4. Holy sweet merciful Jesus. Learn to edit. This whole shenanigan could have been compressed down to a four minute video that didn't leave your entire audience skipping like a meth addled eight year old playing "hot lava" on actual hot lava.

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