ladies and gentlemen welcome back to the workshop fantastic to have you here cuz we are working on a damask steel chef's knife and I want this thing to be a really nice piece of work so it's fantastic to bring you along and it's also fantastic speaking of sharp things to have Dollar Shave Club sponsoring today's episode with their daily essentials kit that you can get a Dollar Shave Club calm for flash-forward one way Charlie's amber lavender body cleanser it's have some shave butter for that steel smooth finish and a razor with enough blades for a month they are sponsoring the video and you can get that kit but just five bucks to keep yourself looking prim and proper for the month thank you Dollar Shave Club sponsor you the video let's get right to it because we have some milling to do after having made up our Damascus yesterday I'm gonna set this up with a little ball bearing that has a flat spot ground on it up against some copper and no that doesn't look good it's heavily rhombus so it's difficult getting it set up securely in the mill in a way that gives us a good base to work off of where you want to make sure it's secure I'm gonna go on with the mill I'm gonna cut across until we're at clean material and hopefully below any weld deposit oh okay this is off the mill we have ourselves a nice square block now the main thing wasn't getting it square the main thing and the most important thing was getting through all the TIG welds even though a lot of them were fusion TIG welds that does affect the pattern a pattern relies solely on there being a differentiation and a boundary between one alloy and the other as soon as we then make a puddle there's no differentiation there's this conglomeration it's a lloyd bit instead of two separate alloys so we've got to get through all the weld and that's the key thing because now we are etching it oh my goodness that patterns amazing oh yeah oh yeah ah that feels good so obviously we're now itching it so that we can have a look at it observe it and see if there are any phases where we need to remove more material before we do that though just have a look at that stunning stunning pattern and again I take no credit for the pattern I am simply following murica's instructions let's see if we spot any weld right upon further examination the front faces are looking good and beautiful it is extremely difficult to show you what I'm looking at but on the sides I can still see a weld bead so we're gonna mill the sides some more right let's give it a second look oh yeah we're looking good this is ready to forge a knife out of I've decided I will in the tip of the blade to this side and so what I've done is I've ground myself a little chamfer here so I know where it is that I forged the isolation for the bolster of the knife the forge is warming up and it is time to flashback to yesterday where now I have been I've mentioned Morocco a lot of mal Massey fire arts and the reason for it is because he is the chef knife guy he is the name that you think of when you think of the finest chefs knives there are a Morocco was kind enough to hop on a call with me and give me some tips hey Morocco what's up hey doing I could see you outstanding how many cubic inches of material am I gonna need for the knife itself to forge that out I'm starting with three to three-and-a-half cubic inches typically the the block is about three quarters of an inch thick by about an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half wide by about three inches to three and a half inches long or maybe three and a quarter and somewhere in that and that comes out to being about three to three-and-a-half cubic inches so that's all very helpful because now I know the amount of material I go right here is actually gonna be pretty damn good it looks to be in the three three and a half cubic inch range and so we're now ready to forge this blade and so here is gonna be operation number one take this on that corner with the chamfer isolate it and forge down a little square lug with enough material for the bolster and the tang from here we're then gonna put a point on it and I'm gonna face that point down to the edge side because as we Forge that bevel that's gonna come back up we're then gonna isolate the blade from the bolster using flat dies but that you know what that's actually too much in one go I don't even think I'm gonna remember that so we're gonna put it in the fire and we're gonna get to that stage and then we'll do a little more funky [Applause] [Applause] okay so here's where we are with our preform I think it's looking how it needs to look you can see it's looking a lot like this step here and if we follow our progression arm you'll see that from here we do something there so my understanding is a key part of a chef's knife is the heel right here and you don't want that heel to be in front of where it as you grip it cuz you want to be able to have it as like a hard stop so we need to somehow get this which is obviously it's not a little heel to it we need to pull it out and pull it back down so we're gonna use the corner of the dies on the power hammer to drag that down and out get it to this shape before we continue forging out the blade in length then finally move on to forging the bevels and this is one of those moments where it is all about the preform I've said it before and I'll say it again it's all in the preform maybe the better and the meter I have it at this stage the better and the neater it'll be when we're done forging it and the easier it'll be to then grind it in to the level of accuracy that we want so I'm going to put this back in the fire we're gonna pull down that heel you start drawing out that blade some more [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] the Rupp profile is in the top here where that bulges out that'll get ground out excluding that we're at about two and 3/16 of an inch wide this heel hair could have done with being drawn out even further preformed baby all about that preformed learning lesson I need to drag it out way more than I possibly think I had trouble with too aggressively putting a bow in it before forging the bevel we were able to fix it and the shape is there it is right smack on nine nine and a quarter inches long still plenty chunky she's nice means we have lots of opportunity to work with it and make sure everything is just straight and neat nice luster the last forging process is forging down our integral tang so we're gonna put it in the fire this way for a little more heating and a little more beaten okay we got it broke down a good ways you'll notice I'm just picking at it I want to be really careful this time it doesn't have a lot of control what it does have is a heart where at least I've got used to just firing off single blows so I can fire off some single blow to helps draw this out I want to make sure this stays centered flower bowls to area so far we've done a pretty good job of keeping our blade relatively centered to the bolster so that Tang for sure needs to be we're gonna start bringing that down just a little ways law what I'm now gonna do so I'm just gonna pop this up here we're gonna pick it it just the one well maybe just once the seed you want to make a flat spot and then we can reference off though okay here we go that's interesting see that tang is twisted from the bolster area let's give that a fixed we'll lock it up see if we can tweak that as it needs be okay by the way these vise grips I know it's probably a little bit of sacrilege but boy little bit useful to hold on to that I'm gonna lower the temperature of the Forge don't need the hammer on anymore all hand Hammel work all the lightest lightest weeks I sent a photo of the knife to Morocco who's kindly giving me some critique and feedback on what I can do to tweak this blade profile to make it look better we also need to verify that the blade is straight so I'm gonna tweak the blade profile straighten it all out and then soon we are gonna be on to our heat treatment process so I'm gonna take some of the belly out here a little more of the fat off of here just keep tweaking the cleaner I make it now the easier it is Leger this tang needs to come over a little bit us just a little off-center so I'm gonna lock it in the vise I'm gonna come in here with a full up and try and double give a little tweak make it a little more in the center much more central and like that you know when the whole mission is I want to make something better than I made last year but already as forged it's better than my completely ground finished heat treated and hand sanded one from last year in terms of straightness oh boy how did I let ask through the cracks okay it's what it's all about spotting where you did terribly it something then hoping to improve giving her a go no matter how embarrassing it is to admit just how terrible your work was still is in many respects couple more tweaks and we should be done and are ready to move on to the next step now what you saw earlier wasn't the full extent of the call I had with mareko he didn't just tell me how many cubic inches we needed he also told me how he heat treats his fantastic freakin world-class chefs knives and Sahara's some of that the first thing I do is actually thermal cycle the blade on my third cycle I quench it and then I actually put it back in the Forge to do just kind of a snap spear dies daniil or self critical in the elk which is only bringing it up to about 1200 1250 but I essentially want tempered martensite over tempered martensite that then after I do my profiling and primary grinding to grind it down to closer dimension to the finish dimension then I'm only quenching once and I've been getting great results so what it is that I need to do is I need to let this cool down and we are going to do two normalizing cycles before I heat it up crunch it and then straight out of the quench we let it heat up to a lower temperature that 1200 degrees Fahrenheit he talked about that temperature will turn the for drop I'm gonna let it slowly cool down and do what's called a sub critical anneal I haven't never done anything like this but Mariko speaks wonders of this process so that's what we're gonna do here we go for normalizing cycle number one you see the forges turned far down lower than normal we have a reducing flame which burns at a much cooler temperature and we have a significantly smaller amount of pressure through the propane ions this means that the temperature of the forge right now is about 850 degrees Celsius and so we're gonna give it a 1 full normalizing cycle that's a little too hot hey there we go we're gonna give it one full normalizing cycle which means cooling it down all the way to air temperature and it is cool so in the fire we go here we are around to the normalizing that there's normalizing cycle number two done now back in the fire pour the kind of quench they're not really quench the kind of quench and in for the kind of quench it is sure would be a shame if it cracked okay let's see if it's straight Wow didn't move a bit perfect it's straight the kind of quench was a success and now we're gonna do our post critical anneal so I'm gonna turn off the forge burners we're gonna let some of the heat from the Forge cool down right now it's probably 700 degrees or so in there still and for the post critical anneal we were on that 1250 Fahrenheit I should stick to one or the other we want that 650 degrees Celsius so we're gonna let some of the heat dissipate and shove that back in should be good to go and so in we go I'm hot I'm sweaty that is that doing it subcritical anneal and I am very pleased that Dollar Shave Club is sponsoring today's video because I now get to go home and I get to use their lavender body wash and clean off all this beautiful dirt I mean it's the dirts lovely but you don't want to keep it on there and so I like I like getting it off and the best thing is is mmm you smell like a wonderful lavender flower afterwards as I said at the beginning of the video Dollar Shave Club is sponsoring this episode and so you too can smell like fine lavender like I do each day you too can experience their shave butter to make shaving effortless with their premium executive razor as well as all the blades that you're gonna need it for the month you also get one wipe Charlies well therefore I don't know cleaning down your mill something like that that whole kit is available for only five bucks from forward slash forward which is the subscription-based grooming product company which means that you just take all the hassle out of ever needing to think about it where you're gonna get your toothpaste that's right they now do toothpaste you don't have to worry about buying overpriced razors and razor blades you don't have to worry about stocking up on any of this stuff because Dollar Shave Club will do it for you and you can experience it right now Dollar Shave Club has got you covered from cheek to cheek thank you Dollar Shave Club for sponsoring the video and keeping all a you guys freshly shaved with your steely smooth like is that too bad and keeping you guys freshly shaved with that steel smooth look I am gonna see you on the very next episode thank you bye bye

23 thoughts on “MAKING A CHEF'S KNIFE!!! PART 2

  1. It's great to watch one with such skill, study his work and figure out what needs to be done. Love the videos but, lavender? Man, really?

  2. You can tell this guy really loves and enjoys what he does, I bet a good portion of what he makes from youtube is reinvested into his setup. Really nice content.

  3. Wicked, Awesome Knife and All Inspiring, Process. Also happy, about the Danish Flag, being so visible! 😉 Mind Your Hearing!! ;-D

  4. I love watching this channel. I know nothing about forging but he has such a great attitude towards everything he does. Keep up the good work and great videos. Also props to the editing.

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